My Travels in Cajun Country
Well, where do I even begin in describing the myriad of delights presented before me in SW Louisiana? I arrived in Lake Charles to the impressive L’Auberge du Lac Hotel and Casino—luxury accommodations with a Texan feel—from the antlered chandeliers to the deep brown leather chairs sprawled in the lobbies and guestrooms. The spacious room was complete with a huge plush bed and a wall of glass that runs the length of the room, overlooking the expansive property. I awoke to a breakfast of short stack pancakes and crisp bacon and headed off for my signature L’Auberge du Lac massage, which was given to me on a warmed bed with soft covers. For supper, it was Jack Daniels Grill and Bar where the ribs are tender and the house merlot flows generously. There, you can see the dueling pianos or comedy acts on the jackknifed, 18-wheeler stage.
In Lake Charles, there are sights that are incomparable, as the Mardi Gras Museum houses the largest collection of Mardi Gras costumes in the South. There, I saw costumes from several Krewes, each more intricate and dazzling than the last. I also had a chance to decorate a King’s Cake from the local Delicious Donuts and Bakery for the beginning of Mardi Gras, creating a sparkling masterpiece of beads and masks, which the SW Louisiana CVB mailed home for me to enjoy later. The next day, we were off to the Creole Nature Trail where we were introduced to several species of animals on the tour. Driving through, I saw wild horses grazing in the marshlands. Besides the natural beauty to be found in and near Lake Charles, the area offers a wealth of down home dining options with live entertainment. I was treated to a bright array of deliciously seasoned boiled crawfish while listening to the Cajun music of the Chris Miller Band at Big Daddy’s restaurant in Iowa, La.
Just as I was beginning to regret leaving this part of the trip, we stopped in Eunice, La., home of the Liberty Theatre, a place that immediately intrigued me with its historical ambiance. Originally a Vaudeville theatre, this facility has a live radio show and dancing every Saturday night. It can be used for meetings and can seat up to 528. Director of the Train Depot Museum Georgie Manuel, with her husband, makes the screen masks traditional to the country Mardi Gras where the costumes are completely original and the festivities are like nowhere else on earth. She described the country Cajun Mardi Gras as “good-natured tomfoolery” where costumes give anonymity you can’t get anywhere else. Close by is the Jean Lafitte National Park Acadian Cultural Center, which houses Acadian memorabilia such as musical instruments and traditional clothing. Here, our group was treated to a taste of boudin, a mouth-watering Cajun mix of rice and pork that tastes amazing. The Cultural Center will host the Smithsonian Institute traveling exhibit, “Key Ingredients…. America by Food,” from Feb. 26–April 9.
The trip to Lafayette was just as distinctive—a place of music, food and fun. This year, the city is celebrating the 250th anniversary of the birth of the Marquis de Lafayette, which will entail many festivities and events throughout the year. I stayed at the Hampton Inn and Suites, and they took care of my every need, including sending up batteries for my camera at 5:45 a.m. In Lafayette, I ate at Prejeans and had the bbq shrimp conjured up with voodoo beer and garlic butter.
Ema’s restaurant, for breakfast, served the most inexpensive and best eggs, bacon, potatoes and biscuits I had in Cajun country. When we were able to pull ourselves away from our meal, we proceeded to the River Ranch, a 256-acre community with homes, retail shopping, markets, dining and much more, which will soon include a 22-room boutique hotel and a 160-room hotel. The walk around downtown Lafayette delivered an eye-full of art museums, galleries, hotels and restaurants that allow for meetings where everything is in one place. The Juliet, a 20-room boutique hotel, will open downtown this year.
Vermilionville, a reconstruction of an Acadian village, gave a glimpse into the Acadian culture and past as I saw the Mardi Gras Indians in costume and then a Creole and Cajun mix of foot-stomping music from artists including Cedric Watson, Jeffery Broussard, D'Jalma Garnier, Hadley Castille and Faren Serrette, who have been playing music all of their lives. After experiencing the authentic fun of Vermilionville, we got to watch the dress rehearsal for the Krewe of Carnavale en Rio at the Cajundome where the theme was the Big Top. The rehearsal had a festival flair that made me want to join the dancing and celebration.
Mulate’s served up Cajun food and dancing, and Cal and Lou Courville taught me the Cajun waltz, two-step and even a dance that had the three of us twirling together. Catfish Mulate’s, the restaurant’s house specialty of grilled catfish topped with shrimp etoufee, melted in my mouth. The night was still young, so we headed out to the Blue Moon Guest House and Saloon, which has a bar on the back porch. Playing that night was a Zydeco band with an interesting mix of instruments including an electric guitar and a washboard—a festive and delightful end to my Cajun adventure.
